If you want a glimpse of old Penzance's history and new Penzance's character, call into the Benbow on Chapel Street. The old inn has been serving up rum for over 300 years, and even appears in the Treasure Island novel.
Inside, the decor is cosy and crowded, full of character and intriguing maritime artefacts. Tuck into a hearty plateful of locally caught fish, or choose a "mARRRRgaerita" pizza for the sheer joy of ordering it.
Of course, you may simply want to come here for the grog and the atmosphere. Dogs are welcome in the Benbow, although as their website says, pups must keep their humans on a lead. (Look up at the roof as you leave. No, it's not the grog you've swigged - Octavious is always up there.)